Hurricane Irma has brought devastation to the British Virgin Islands (BVIs), decimating many of the areas that we enjoyed earlier this year. Cruisers have posted photos of boats crushed together. Cruising the BVIs seems forever changed — it is difficult to imagine how this once thriving group of islands will recover.
(But they did.)
This post was originally written just after Hurricane Irma in September 2017. I have added a 2026 update at the end.
Arriving at Road Harbour Before Hurricane Irma
Six months ago I arrived to the customs ferry dock in Road Harbour, BVIs by dinghy. The dock was a bustling, happy place.
My son, Paul, had an eye infection and we needed to see a doctor. Paul had no trouble scaling the high wall designed for ferries. Being nine years old, he jumped up to the customs dock and quickly distanced himself from me, taking in the scenery, as I assessed the best route to clamber.
I could literally create a collage of photos that focus on my skills at entering and exiting our dinghy. You could see me arriving on all fours in Puerto Rico, or face planting on my dinghy in the chic harbour in St. Martin. I’ve been told to “take it slow” or been encouraged “nearly there” by other cruisers.
The BVIs offered me a slightly more graceful entrance as two local men assumed the ready position, braced their sneakers, and each extended a burly arm to haul me from my dinghy.
From the onset, I put my trust in two strangers from the BVI. Each man took one of my arms in his grasp and hauled.
Even as I straightened myself from an ungainly squat position, and my son cast a side glance (with his good eye) in my direction, I felt immediately welcomed.
My son and I walked straight to immigration. Our customs agent began our paperwork, but quickly bypassed formalities and sent my son to the Peebles Hospital.
He was diagnosed with acute conjunctivitis and was prescribed some eye drops. We returned to the customs office to finish our paperwork. Paul’s eye quickly improved, and we enjoyed our time cruising the BVIs.
I adored the BVIs. Some cruisers complained that the BVIs are chock-full of charter boats, captained by people with limited experience. But, who on earth is happier than a bunch of holidaymakers?
Sure, we saw some boats anchor in 25 feet of water with 30 feet of chain, but people seemed as happy as football fans at a tailgate party.
For information see Anchoring in the BVIs.
Full Moon Party in Trellis Bay
The BVIs saw me dancing with my 11-year-old daughter, Betty, in a beach bar — busting my best moves in my ‘mom’ shorts. Here are some pictures from our night out with the kids at the Full Moon Party in Trellis Bay.
You can see the smiles fading in the last photograph. We are often in bed by 8:00pm. A night out is a rare event in the lives of the Escher family.
Marina Cay Before Hurricane Irma
Here is a picture of our boat at the Marina Cay anchorage. An iconic anchorage while cruising the BVIs. I can’t recall exactly why we put out all of our fenders.
I’m going to miss the BVIs. Hurricane Irma has affected these beautiful islands and the vibrant tourism business in ways that are difficult to comprehend.
Our family is now in Tobago. Before we left Grenada we seriously considered returning to the BVIs to bring donations and aid but we hear that the social climate is unsettled.
Desperate people do desperate things. Local people cautioned us that there is too much of a risk to safety, especially that we have four young childrmen.
The BVIs was beautiful and we feel fortunate to have experienced these wonderful islands and to have been met such amazing people.
Update on Cruising the BVIs After Hurricane Irma
Peebles Hospital was renamed the Dr. D. Orlando Smith Hospital in 2019.
The Trellis Bay Full Moon Party resumed in December 2017, just three months after the hurricane. Click here for the upcoming schedule.
The Marina Cay Bar and Grill re-opened in 2023.
The iconic red telephone box at Marina Cay was swept away by Hurricane Irma. It was discovered months later buried on the seabed, some distance from the dock.
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